So I realized my previous post on installing a lift kit on a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder didn't get into the nuts and bolts on how to do this stuff. I'll do this one on removing the rear suspension components, and another on the front. Installing is just doing the reverse.
On a relatively level and firm surface, shift the truck into 4wd, block the front wheels, put it in gear, and break the rear lug nuts loose. It is preferable to remove the panhard rod, but it is not necessary to install the lift, and you will need a bearing type puller to remove it. I tried to hammer it off, and the truck would have none of it.
If you have a big enough jack, the easiest way to do this is just jack the frame up until the wheels are off the ground then put jack stands under the frame on both sides. Refer to your owner's manual for the jack points. But you may have to make some up on your own too, use a little piece of wood for extra protection. Just don't use anything that looks like sheetmetal, or that it might bend easily. The springs won't pop out on you. They will be held just in the spring perches by the strut travel limit. At that point, the springs shouldn't have any tension on them anyway. You should be able to grab the spring and jiggle it back and forth. If they seem to have tension still, stop and recheck everything.
Now I didn't have a tall enough jack, so the alternate PITA method is to jack the truck up by the axle as far as you can, put jackstands under the frame, then lower the jack until the axle is hanging free and the wheels are off the ground. I always put a 2nd jack under the frame with a little tension on it in case the jackstands fold. I've actually had a jackstand fold up on me (fortunately I wasn't under the car). There was a slight incline where we were working, we had to take the parking brake off to remove the integrated rear brake rotor and parking brake drum on an Infiniti car (man that seemed like a stupid design), and our chocks didn't hold. A 2nd jack might give you enough time to get out from under the truck if it were falling.
Remove your first wheel and shock. That stuff is pretty straightforward. Now you are ready to remove the spring. If the panhard rod were removed, you could lower the axle until the spring just fell out. Since I left it on you need a few tricks to get the spring out. First I used the McPherson strut compressors to compress the spring a little bit to get it to slide over the lower spring perch. This is the only slightly dangerous part (aside from working under a jacked up truck). Be sure the strut compressor is installed good and use the spring safety hooks if available on the compressor. You don't want to be near that thing if it gave way.
I also put a jack underneath the axle on the other side and jacked it up just a little, which caused the wheel I was working on to droop just a little more. As you are doing this, mind the rear brake line, differential vent, and any other wiring to the axle like ABS sensors, you don't want to tear them. The spring slid out with minor effort.
Now just put everything back together with your new springs and shocks.
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This is the static sag (or unladen sag), This can be
ReplyDeletechanged by adjusting the spring preload (more preload = less sag). Repeat the same
process for the rear, this time measuring the distance from the wheel spindle to a
fixed point on the tail. Now you are ready to begin setting up your suspension.
The key is to do it a little at a time and make notes as you go. For road riding
start with the wet track settings and work from there.
The way you are doing it, it's straightforward and not too technical. Thanks for helping me out doin' my suspension work.
ReplyDeleteThe way to do it is sometimes difficult. I let my mechanic do the work sometimes. Working with suspensions has increased my mechanical skills.
ReplyDelete